Overview
Knysna
(pronounced "Nize-na"), on South
Africa's popular Garden Route,
used to be a remote logging town in the middle of a vast forest. Its
lake-like estuary provided ocean access to sailing
ships through a treacherous channel framed by two rocky promontories, still
known as the Knysna Heads. Huge logging operations driven by these first
18th century European settlers caused widespread deforestation before a
stop was put to the madness. While vast sections of the forests were lost,
beautiful indigenous forests are
still found around Knysna.
There's a host of activities to engage
in, and attractions to explore in and around Knysna. In our opinion the
top ones are exploring the surrounding
forests, embarking on an excursion
to the Featherbed Nature Reserve and doing the Outeniqua Choo-Tjoe steam
train ride between Knysna and George.
Central Knysna

Knysna Estuary and Heads as viewed across
Central Knysna.
The town of Knysna is located on the
shores of the Estuary by the same name. The N2,
which amongst others links
Port Elizabeth to Cape
Town, runs right through the centre of the medium-sized coastal town.
Along the main road through town a variety
of small shops deal in everything from prized Yellowwood furniture to
quirky products made from recycled materials. The main road is also home
to one or two small malls. In between all of this you'll find open-air
flea-market-type stalls on pavements, parking lots and even church grounds.
If you're the type of person who feel traveling is just not complete without
some shopping a morning or day browsing Knysna's main street on foot should
be a rewarding experience.
To round of the experience you'll find
coffee shops and family restaurants
at regular intervals along the main road. There
are also one or two venues offering regular life gigs in the evenings
(mostly Rock, Jazz and Blues).
The Knysna
Waterfront
The Knysna Waterfront was only developed in the late 1990's. It is located
on the shore of the Knysna Estuary and doubles as a small harbour for
mostly ferry's, which operate Estuary and other trips from it. The smallish
Waterfront offer mostly restaurants and bars. Other tenants include local
tour operators and
fashion boutiques. While the Waterfront is quite commercial it does provide
the best choice for evening entertainment in town.
Our preferred hotel in town, The
Knysna Quays Hotel*, is right next to the Waterfront, located between
it and the Knysna Yacht Club.
The Estuary

Kid with stick plays in the Knysna Estuary
at dawn.
In South
Africa, Knysna Estuary is often referred to as Knysna Lake. As it
is connected to the ocean and affected by its tides it is however an estuary
and not a lake - even though it has a lake-like appearance. Most
tourists explore the estuary by means of a number of ferry-rides offered.
The most
popular ferry excursion, which we
strongly recommend, is the one included in the outing to the Featherbed
Nature Reserve on the other side of the Estuary (relative to the town).
For more independent minded travelers, with time on their hands, hiring
a small house-boat-cum-cabin-cruiser is another option.
You may also explore the Estuary by scuba
diving, snorkel diving or canoeing. Knysna has its own yacht club and
with some special arrangements you may sail out, through the Heads, onto
the Indian Ocean. The Estuary also supports a unique industry in the form
of commercial oyster farming. Africa
Deluxe Tours gladly arranges various estuary activities for our clients
when required.
The Heads
The mouth of the Knysna Estuary is in fact a narrow channel, which is
difficult to navigate for those not familiar with it. Provided
that an experienced skipper is at the helm the channel is however easily
handled by small and medium-sized craft - including sailing boats. The
channel is best known for being dramatically framed by two rocky promontories,
known as The Heads or The Knysna Heads.
The Eastern Head
The eastern head is covered by suburban development. An exiting addition
to the eastern head is a new golf course, which has been developed on
top of the ridge line and slightly east from the channel. It provides
glorious ocean views and is highly rated. At the base of the eastern
head a popular pathway leads over the rocks along the channel. The short
trail is best explored at low tide and while recommended we do advise
basic caution. A budget restaurant is based just above the start of
the pathway and provides great views over the channel towards the western
head.
The Western Head
& Featherbed Nature Reserve
The western head falls within the privately owned Featherbed Nature
Reserve. It is still covered by indigenous vegetation and conserved
by the proprietors. The Nature
Reserve gets its name from the safe anchorage it provided to 18th
century wooden sailing ships. The
ships had to navigate the (for them) treacherous channel to enter the
Estuary. The small sheltered cove, featuring a sandy bottom, just past
the channel and at the inland side of the western head, was viewed like
a feather bed on which the tired ships could safely lay down.
Today a wooden jetty
welcomes a twice-daily scheduled ferry delivering visitors to the reserve.
Beyond the ferry a small partially open-air restaurant and visitors
centre welcomes you. On arriving at the visitors centre you are taken
on a tractor / 4x4 truck (Unimorg) ride to the top of the western head
from where you make your way back on foot via a scenic path. On your
return you can enjoy a meal at the restaurant before taking the pleasant
ferry ride back to town. Most of our
tours include this excursion,
if not Africa Deluxe Tours
will gladly arrange it for clients should their itineraries
allow enough time. The Reserve also offers a couple of adventure activities,
such as abseiling, although this has to be arranged and booked separately
from the standard half-day excursion.
The Outeniqua Choo-Tjoe
Knysna is the start/end of the railway line used by the very popular Outeniqua
Choo-Tjoe steam train, which runs along the coast between it and George
±60km away. For steam train enthusiasts it makes for a memorable
journey with lots of photo ops of the beautifully restored and maintained
steam engines. For
tourists a journey on the train is equally memorable and worthwhile.
Keep in mind though that the restored
period-carriages are not luxurious and the journey does take a good 2.5
hours one-way (no commentary). We don't recommend doing the return journey.
Africa Deluxe Tours generally
arranges for a road transfer to return
clients to Knysna unless otherwise requested. While the train could double
as a means of transport to George, for budget travelers, there are easier
and faster ways to do the journey.
Enroute the journey leads across the Knysna
Estuary (by means of bridges), through forests and plantations on to Sedgefield
(short stop), past and across various inland salt-water-wetlands, through
Wilderness (short stop), over the
scenic Kaaimans River Bridge at Dolphin Point, through a short tunnel,
past the scenic Victoria Bay and onto George.
Provided that you have return transport
or intend staying over in George, Oudtshoorn
or another nearby town, a journey on the Outeniqua Choo-Tjoe in the afternoon
joins perfectly to a morning excursion
to the Featherbed Nature Reserve. It is a tried and tested formula for
a great full-day tour of the area.
Beaches

The beach linking Brenton-on-Sea and Buffels Bay near Knysna.
With the exception of one or two tiny
patches of sand in front of private homes the town of Knysna and the Estuary
does not provide sandy beaches. However, a couple of great beaches are
but a short drive out of town.
Noetzie
Noetzie is a secluded beach to the east of Knysna. Its not very accessible
to tourists but worth the trouble it takes to get there. You
have to park your car in a residential area and then navigate a long
flight of steps down to the actual beach, which you will only really
get to see once at the bottom of the stairs. The beach is surrounded
by overgrown hillside with a couple of private residences, including
one or two odd castle-like dwellings. The beach is not commercial and
you'll have to carry in your own refreshments and the like.
Brenton-on-Sea
Across the estuary from Knysna and on the ocean side you'll find the
small holiday village of Brenton-on-Sea. As the village is mostly comprised
of private holiday homes most overnight tourists head for the economical
Brenton-on-Sea Hotel. The Hotel is ideally located right on the edge
of a sandy beach, which stretches a couple of kilometres to Buffels
Bay in the distance. Apart from beach hikes and great ocean views, with
whale sightings in-season, the village offers little else. Its greatest
asset is probably its proximity to Knysna.
Buffels
Bay
The small holiday village of Buffels Bay is located on the coast approx.
30-minutes' drive west of Knysna. Its remoteness and non-commercial
laid-back atmosphere are its biggest attractions. It is linked by a
long sandy beach to Brenton-on-Sea to the east and offers good sea swimming
and snorkel diving. Accommodation is mostly in private holiday homes
or a campsite located right on the point of the bay - scenic but very
exposed.
Forests
The two main remaining forest areas are Goudveld and Diepwalle. The Goudveld
Forest includes some commercial plantation areas making Diepwalle the
better option for nature purists. However,
both feature beautiful indigenous forest. They are also rich in birdlife,
holding many jewels for birders, including the Knysna Loerie and Narina
Trogon. The forests are best
explored on foot, with a number of short signposted trails on offer. There
are also some excellent mountain biking trails as well as picnic sites
and forest streams for swimming. For more information on the forests,
click here.
Accommodation
Knysna offers a remarkable range of accommodation options for its size.
It caters for all luxury levels, although a little thin on the 5-star
side - but it has good 4-star establishments. B&B's and guesthouses
are spread throughout the central town and more remote areas. Driving
through town you are bombarded with small B&B / Guesthouse signs from
one end of the main road to the other. However, it is worthwhile to keep
in mind that Knysna is very popular with South
Africans and accommodation can be hard to come by for dates falling
within the country's school holidays.
Plettenberg Bay to Knysna
The ±40km stretch of the N2 (National
Route 2) linking Plettenberg Bay
and Knysna cuts through spectacular indigenous bush and plantations. A
host of arts and crafts outlets are concentrated along parts of the route.
More
noteworthy attractions on this stretch include the Knysna Elephant Park
(a little too zoo-like for our liking but you may enjoy the opportunity
to touch and get close to elephants); the Harkerville forestry area (excellent
mountain bike tracks and hiking routes through forested areas to remote
mountainous shoreline); Garden of Eden (short forest walks) and the Diepwalle
Forest ±20km from Knysna and inland from the N2
(excellent hiking and mountain biking routes).
Prince Alfred's Pass offers an alternative
day outing for self-drive clients, linking Plett
to Uniondale and Knysna via an inland detour of gravel roads and passes.
To be on the safe side, enquire about the state of this route from locals
before venturing onto it though, especially after heavy rains.
(Coming soon: Knysna's History.)
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