The Garden Route is a tourism paradise
combining excellent infrastructure with scenic natural attractions. The
coastal N2 Highway provides easy access
to most Garden Route towns and villages but is far enough inland, in most
places, not to spoil the region's mostly rugged coastline. In between
towns and villages long stretches of the rugged coastline is only accessible
via hiking trials or mountain bike tracks making it a paradise for adventure
and nature lovers.
Some visitors complain that the Garden
Route is too commercial for their liking. It is true that there is a lot
of commercialism around if you stick to the main well-trodden attractions
- although calling the Garden Route commercial is really an overstatement.
If you are willing, able and have time to wander of the main tourist routes
a treasure throve of unspoilt nature awaits you. Because of its popularity
the Garden Route does get very busy during South African holidays, especially
during the summer holiday in December.
Tsitsikamma & Tsitsikamma National
Park
Tsitsikamma
is where you will find some of the most pristine forest areas on the whole
of the Garden Route, equalled only by the forests
in the Knysna area. The forest areas left after extensive deforestation
by the early 18th century European settlers in the area are today strictly
protected. Most of the indigenous forests in the western section of the
Garden Route fall within the Tsitsikamma
National Park. The Park not
only conserves indigenous flora and fauna but also marine life as it incorporates
a marine belt stretching 5.5km into the ocean. The
Tsitsikamma area is geared for
visitors who prefer simple accommodation, unspoiled nature and active
holidays.
Attractions
and villages located inside
or on the edge of the Park include the Paul
Sauer Bridge (spanning the Storms River Gorge); Big Tree (a huge Yellowwood
reached via a short forest hike); Storms River Village (base for various
adventure activities including black water tubing, abseiling, forest canopy
tours, hiking & mountain biking); Storms River Mouth Nature Reserve
(log cabin and camping accommodation, hiking trails along beautiful rugged
coastline and through coastal vegetation, the beautiful river mouth, restaurant
with a view, base for the most popular hiking trail in South Africa -
The Otter Hiking Trail); Bloukrans
River Bridge (base for highest
commercial bungy site in the world - 216m; arts & crafts market);
Bloukrans River &
Grootrivier Passes (old coastal
road descending into scenic gorges rather than passing over N2's
high arch-bridges); Nature's Valley & De Vasselot Nature Reserve (rustic
coastal village with great coastal and forest hikes as well as a wide
sandy beach) and The Crags & Monkeyland
(primate sanctuary with informative but enjoyable tours).
Keurbooms
and Keurbooms River
Most
tourists cross the Keurbooms River enroute to or from Plettenberg
Bay almost without noticing it. However, if you have time, exploring
this very scenic tidal river is more than worthwhile. A simple ferry operates
regular trips; you may also opt to paddle up by yourself.
The village of Keurbooms, also known as
Keurboomstrand is not actually located on the River's banks but a short
way east of there. It is wedged between the ocean and an overgrown hillside.
It features a small sandy beach next to the Arch Rock Caravan Park. The
actual Arch Rock is a short walk from there.
Plettenberg
Bay
Plettenberg
Bay is sometimes jokingly called "Sandton-on-Sea"
because so many of the holiday-home owners come from Johannesburg's
affluent Sandton suburb. Plett, as
it is affectionately known, is a playground for South
Africa's rich and increasingly for the wealthy from elsewhere on the
globe. However, it is still accessible to regular travelers.
Attractions include boat-based dolphin
& whale watching (in season); hiking at the spectacular Robberg Nature
Reserve; the Knysna Elephant Park (located between Plett and Knysna);
Monkeyland (15-minutes away); motorised
and non-motorised glider flights (over ocean with chance of whale / dolphin
sightings); scuba diving; sea kayaking and deep-sea fishing. Reflecting
the allure of Plett for the rich and famous it has developed into a premier
polo venue for international tournaments.
Plettenberg Bay to Knysna
The
±40km stretch of the N2 (National Route
2) linking Plettenberg Bay and Knysna
cuts through spectacular indigenous bush and plantations. A host of arts
and crafts outlets are concentrated along parts of the route. More noteworthy
attractions on this stretch include the Knysna Elephant Park (a little
too zoo-like for our liking but you may enjoy the opportunity to touch
and get close to elephants); the Harkerville forestry area (excellent
mountain bike tracks and hiking routes through forested
areas to remote mountainous shoreline); Garden of Eden (short forest
walks) and the Diepwalle Forest ±20km from Knysna
and inland from the N2 (excellent hiking
and mountain biking routes).
Prince Alfred's Pass offers an alternative
day outing for self-drive clients, linking Plett
to Uniondale and Knysna via an inland
detour of gravel roads and passes. To be on the safe side, enquire about
the state of this route from locals before venturing onto it though, especially
after heavy rains.
Knysna
Knysna used to be a remote logging
town in the middle of a vast forest.
Its lake-like estuary provided ocean access to sailing ships through a
treacherous channel framed by two rocky promontories, still known as the
Knysna Heads.
Huge
logging operations driven by these first 18th century European settlers
caused widespread deforestation before a stop was put to the madness.
While vast sections of the forests were lost, beautiful indigenous
forests are still found around Knysna.
Knysna
is a haven for flea markets, curious, wood furniture and antiques shopping.
Knysna "Lake", actually an
estuary, supports various boat based activities. The town is the start/end
of the railway line used by the very popular Outeniqua Choo-Tjoe steam
train, which runs along the coast between it and George ±60km away.
Another popular activity, included in
most Afrilux tours, is a ferry trip, and visit to, the privately owned
Featherbed Nature Reserve. The Reserve includes the western Knysna Head
and visitors get to explore a coastal pathway after a 4x4 tractor / Unimorg
ride to the top. For outdoor lovers Featherbed offers some adventure activities
and the Knysna Forests is only
a short trip out of town. The closest sandy beaches to Knysna
are at Noetzie and Brenton-on-Sea.
Knysna's
central position makes it a perfect base from which to explore the rest
of the Garden Route.
Brenton-on-Sea
Across the estuary from Knysna and
on the ocean side you'll find the small holiday village of Brenton-on-Sea.
As the village is mostly comprised of private holiday homes most overnight
tourists head for the economical Brenton-on-Sea Hotel. The Hotel is ideally
located right on the edge of a sandy beach, which stretches a couple of
kilometres to Buffels Bay in the distance. Apart from beach hikes and
great ocean views with whale sightings in-season the village offers little
else. Its greatest asset is probably its proximity to Knysna.
Buffels
Bay
The small holiday village of Buffels Bay is located on the coast approx.
30-minutes' drive from Knysna. Its
remoteness and non-commercial laid-back atmosphere are its biggest attractions.
It is linked by a long sandy beach to Brenton-on-Sea and offers good sea
swimming and snorkel diving.
Accommodation is mostly in private holiday
homes or a campsite located right on the point of the bay - scenic but
very exposed.
Inland
salt-water lakes
From Knysna the N2
cuts through the interior as it heads towards Sedgefield, ±20km
west from the former. It then leads further to Wilderness
some 16km away. Along this route a couple of inland salt-water lakes are
found. They are mostly very shallow and are the result of seawater seeping
through coastal dune fields.
The Outeniqua Choo-Tjoe passes some of
these lakes, which are rich in bird life. They are also popular for water
activities. The lakes are all called "-vlei", the Afrikaans
word for wetland. The more prominent lakes are Groenvlei, Swartvlei, Langvlei
and Rondevlei ("Green", "Black", "Long"
and "Round" -vlei).
Sedgefield
Sedgefield is located in the middle of the Garden Route's inland salt-water
lakes and borders Swartvlei. It's not very accessible to tourists and
most pass through without realising that the village offers a great unspoilt
beach - as it is well hidden from view. It is also very close to the Goukamma
Nature and Marine Reserve, which includes Groenvlei. The Reserve offers
coastal and inland hikes reaching as far as Buffels Bay which lies just
outside its eastern border. The Outeniqua Choo-Tjoe's route leads right
through the middle of town. The steam train stops at the tiny local station
making it a viable means of transport to either Knysna
or Wilderness and George. Horse
rides are offered at close-by Swartvlei (salt-water lake) and the town's
ridge line is a popular launch site for paragliders.

Wilderness
The town of Wilderness is also
a bit of a rich man's place although much more down to earth than Plettenberg
Bay. It lies stretched-out along the shoreline just east of the Kaaimans
River. The N2 runs a little too close to
the beach here for our liking. However the town offers perfectly placed
private residences all along its sandy beach. It also offers one or two
hotels and a range of guesthouses. The Outeniqua Choo-Tjoe steam train
stops at Wilderness Station two
times daily making it a viable option for traveling between George and
Knysna from Wilderness.
Wilderness
is backed by Rondevlei around which much of its activities are based.
The Wilderness National Park is also very popular and offers economical
accommodation in quiet environs. While the Park features good hiking trails
and bush vegetation it does not compare to the country's other more pristine
and/or remote national parks.
Hoekwil
Hoekwil is located slightly inland from Wilderness
in the foothills of the beautiful Outeniqua Mountains. It used to be a
bit of an isolated backwater. While still very rustic it has since grown
into a very popular retreat for city folk and artists, many of whom have
since relocated to it. If you don't mind being a bit further away from
the ocean, and prefer down to earth, off the beaten track destinations
Hoekwil may just be what you're looking for. It offers peace and quiet
as well as great views onto the lakes, rivers, mountains and shoreline
of the surrounding area.
Kaaimans
River Bridge & viewpoint
The railway bridge spanning the Kaaimans River just west of Wilderness
is one of South Africa's tourism
icons and is featured in many tourism photographs. The Outeniqua Choo-Tjoe
steam train crosses it on its journey between Knysna
and George.
The N2 coastal
route passes close by and a viewpoint (Dolphin Point) offers
great views of the river mouth, bridge, ocean and the Wilderness
Beach to the east. During whale season (August to November) it provides
a great vantage point for possible sightings of these marine giants. Dolphins
are more common though and seen throughout the year.
Victoria Bay
The small sheltered bay and village of Victoria Bay marks arguably the
best swimming point on the Garden Route. The bay features great swells
and a sandy beach backed by a grass terrace. It's a family friendly venue
with changing rooms and light snacks on sale. One of the attractions of
the place is its smallness, which also means that there is very little
accommodation available. The village offers a few B&B's and guesthouses,
virtually all with great shoreline locations as well as a smallish camping
ground. Victoria Bay struggles with huge numbers of visitors in Decembers
but tends to be a very quiet spot during the rest of the year. It is also
a good whale-watching location (in season).
George
George is set against the spectacular backdrop of the Outeniqua Mountains
and close to a very scenic coastline. However, the town itself is not
very picturesque. Its attraction rather lies in its proximity to other
tourist attractions. It is the start/end of the railway line between itself
and Knysna on which the Outeniqua Choo-Tjoe
steam train runs twice daily. The Fancourt Golf Estate and its various
golf courses lie on the edge of the town, in 2004 the Estate hosted the
President's Cup.
Just beyond George the very scenic Outeniqua
Pass cuts through the mountains of the same name to Oudtshoorn
in the Klein Karoo, as do two other historic passes - the Montagu and
Voortrekker Passes. George also acts as a gateway into the Garden Route
for tourists who can board scheduled flights to the tiny George Airport
from amongst others Johannesburg International and Cape Town International
Airports.
Herold's Bay
Located a 5-minute drive from George on the nearby coastline the scenic
Herold's Bay is somewhat similar to Victoria Bay. Its sea is however not
as safe for swimming as the latter although quite good if basic caution
is taken. Herolds Bay is reached via a single access road. The village
does not offer many accommodation options to tourists as virtually all
the houses are private holiday homes. Herolds Bay's most famous fan is
pro golfer Ernie Els who recently built a holiday home on the beachfront.
Glentana
West of Herolds Bay, Glentana lies stretched out along a long sandy beach.
It is a good place to go for extended beach walks but does not offer much
else. Its residents and home-owning holiday makers head there for peace
and quite - its not a very active environment.
Groot Brak & Klein Brak
Groot Brak and Klein Brak are neighbouring coastal villages and get their
names from the Groot (Afrikaans = "large" / "great")
and Klein (Afr. = "small" / "little") Brak (Afr. =
"brackish") Rivers that flows through it. These tidal rivers
aren't very big but sufficient for limited water sports such as water-skiing.
While Klein Brak features limited industries (e.g. a shoe factory) the
two towns are once again mainly made up of holiday homes to which middle-class
South African families trek from Gauteng and Cape Town during school holidays.
Hartenbos
While the rest of the Garden Route is a mixed bag in terms of South Africans
who stay or holiday there Hartenbos is virtually completely Afrikaans
and proudly so. The village was annexed by an Afrikaans cultural organisation
a few decades ago and turned into an affordable holiday destination for
Afrikaans families.
With the final death of Apartheid in 1994
any possibly discriminatory policies were thrown out of the window but
the Afrikaans personality of the place is as good as set in stone. This
is not only clear from listening to the language spoken by holiday makers
and residents but also from entertainment programs offered during holidays,
which are thoroughly Afrikaans in its nature. If you speak Dutch or Flemish
it means that, with some exposure, you will probably be able to partly
follow Afrikaans and you should thus find the place fascinating.
Hartenbos offers a fairly nice sandy beach
with good swimming. There are also a lot of facilities on offer including
a hot-water spa. However, scenic it is definitely not. To the west huge
fuel storage tanks and a small industrial area mark the border between
it and Mossel Bay. The many facilities
on offer, including a beach restaurant, in our view spoils the tranquility
of the place - there's too much concrete and too much tar.
Mossel Bay
In our view Mossel Bay marks the
western extremity of the Garden Route although others may include towns
such as Gouritsmond and Stil Bay as well.
Up-town
Mossel Bay offers great ocean views
but this is one of the few towns on the Garden Route that's really not
very pretty. It has a harbour town feel to it, which it is. Mossel
Bay features a small fishing and goods harbour. The harbour is home
to a couple of operators who operate bay cruises, mostly to a seal island
offshore with opportunities to see dolphins and whales (in season). Some
offer shark-cage diving. The only sandy beach, Santos Beach, is close
to the harbour, but offers good swimming. Its extension to the east is
called Dias Beach, but it is more or less the same beach and too close
to a light industrial area for our liking.
Further from the central town area the
Point area features a camping ground, entertainment venues (e.g. go-kart
racing) and a mid-sized hotel. The Point has a rocky shoreline but is
popular with surfers.
A
scenic cliff-top path starts from a shallow Cave below the Point Lighthouse.
While the St. Blaize Trail is recommended care should be taken as it is
not paved and there is no protective railing.
Most tourists briefly pass through Mossel
Bay to visit the Bartolomeu
Dias Museum Complex. While the Complex's main focus is on honouring
Portuguese explorer Bartolomeu Dias - the first to round the Cape
of Good Hope during the fifteenth century, it also covers other topics.
The Complex includes a Maritime Museum, a Shell Museum, a Cultural Museum
and the historic Post Office Tree used by the early seafarers.
Mossel
Bay links to Oudtshoorn in
the Klein Karoo via the Robbinson Pass, which cuts across the Outeniqua
Mountains.